Post by antonkrupicka on Dec 30, 2012 16:49:52 GMT -5
Boulder's Flatirons on the east face of Green Mt are an iconic location of moderate climbing and are the site of many speed records. Specifically, much attention is paid to the great east faces of the First and Third Flatirons, but many other records also exist on the other three Flatirons, for various link-ups, and on other similar formations that are non-numbered flatirons. Bill Wright's website is a treasure trove of history in speed-based efforts in this arena, but this post is an effort to present this information with cleaner organization and in a more public location where on-going efforts can be easily documented and updated.
Photo: Anton Krupicka
All speed records for the numbered Flatirons are car-to-car. The traditional start/finish is the trash can on the trail a few yards west of the Ranger Cottage in Boulder's Chautauqua Park. As with any FKTs, there are variations in style, i.e. degrees of support. In these running/climbing FKTs, "unsupported" refers to a ropeless ascent and descent of the rock--no rappelling. For virtually any speed record on the Flatirons, it goes without saying that they were "solo" affairs, i.e. no gear was used to protect a fall during the climbing portion of the effort.
FIRST FLATIRON
Matthias Messner has the FKT at 32:18 (Oct. 14, 2015), unsupported.
Sonia Buckley has the women's FKT at 54:46 (2017).
The Direct East Face route (5.6) is the line of ascent on this most proud of Flatiron FKTs.
Rock History:
2015, 32:18 - Matthias Messner
2010, 33:05 - Stefan Griebel
2004, 33:19 - Dave Mackey
2003, 35:04 - Buzz Burrell
SECOND FLATIRON
This rock is still waiting for a serious effort as a stand-alone FKT (not part of a link-up), but the preferred line of ascent would be Free For All (5.6).
Danny Gilbert has the FKT for a summit route (he climbed Freezeway), 34m09s, 10/25/2017, www.strava.com/activities/1246694706
Sonia Buckley has the women's FKT for a summit route (Free For All), 1:06
THIRD FLATIRON
Matthias Messner has the FKT at 32:56 (Oct. 19, 2016), supported.
Dave Mackey had the previous FKT at 33:17 (2004), supported.
Stefan Griebel has the FKT at 36:14 (2008), unsupported.
Sonia Buckley reports women's FKTs of 48:31 (supported, 10/2016) and 54:28 (unsupported, 10/2017).
The standard East Face (5.2) starting from the East Bench (not the true base of the rock) is the record route on this rock. The "supported" FKTs are done with a fixed line for rappel from the top, unsupported requires downclimbing.
Rock History:
10/19/2016, 32:56 - Matthias Messner (rap from top) Report
9/11/2012, 33:48 - Anton Krupicka (rap from top) Splits: RA Trail, 6:05; Base, 14:22; Summit, 22:22; Ground, 25:34.
9/11/2012, 34:50 - Dave Mackey (rap from top)
2008, 36:14 - Stefan Griebel (unsupported)
2004, 33:17 - Dave Mackey (rap from top) Report
2003, 34:48 - Buzz Burrell (rap from top)
1989, 36:27 - Bill Briggs (unsupported) Splits: Bluebell Shelter, 5:50; Base, 14:50; Summit, 22:43; Ground, 27:02
FOURTH FLATIRON
Stefan Griebel has the FKT at 59:15 (7/28/2003).
This rarely-climbed Flatiron consists of three seperate pieces of rock stacked on top of one another making it the longest of the five Flatirons. Standard East Face route (5.4).
2003, 59:15 - Stefan Griebel Splits: RA Trail, 7:27; Sentinel Pass, 18:20; Base 4th, 20:30; Summit 4th, 39:45; Sentinel Pass, 50:40.
FIFTH FLATIRON
FIRST & THIRD LINK-UP
Stefan Griebel has the FKT at 48:33 (2010).
This car-to-car link-up is almost certainly always done unsupported (no rappels).
Rock History:
2010, 48:33 - Stefan Griebel
2008, 51:26 - Stefan Griebel
2003, 53:09 - Buzz Burrell Splits: Base 1st, 11:20; Top 1st, 22:10; Base 3rd, 30:00; Top 3rd, 37:10.
2003, 58:12 - Bill Briggs
FLATIRON TRIFECTA
Buzz Burrell has the FKT at 1:09:13 (2003), downclimbing the Second.
This is a car-to-car enchainment of the East Face routes on the First, Second, and Third Flatirons. An issue here becomes whether the routes are climbed or downclimbed, because the configuration of the rocks is such that downclimbing the Second Flatiron will make the enchainment significantly shorter. I personally prefer the aesthetic of ascending each rock from bottom to top, but simply ask that when reporting times, one is clear about what tactic was used.
Link-up History:
2003, 1:09:13 - Buzz Burrell Splits: Summit 1st, 24:40; Base 2nd, 40:00; Summit 3rd, 52:00
2003, 1:18:40 - Burrell & Bill Briggs Splits: Base 1st-13:00; Top 1st-27:00; Top 2nd-32:30; Base 2nd-48:00; Base 3rd-54:00; Top 3rd-1:02.
FLATIRON QUINFECTA
Buzz Burrell set the FKT at 2:01:48 on 10/21/2003, downclimbing the 2nd and 5th Flatirons.
Anton Krupicka set a new FKT at 1h48m58s, Sept. 2016, using Burrell's technique of downclimbing the 2nd and 5th, as posted on his Instagram
Bill Briggs set the FKT at 2:16:08 on 10/25/2001, ascending each rock.
Cordis Hall set a new FKT at 2:04:59 on 8/13/2016, ascending each rock (link to GPS track below).
Anton Krupicka lowered the FKT (ascending each) to 1:51:41 on 9/30/2016.
Mattheus Messner pushed the FKT down to 1:46:22 on 10/26/2016
The car-to-car enchainment of all five Flatirons requires the same tactical distinction (ascending vs. downclimbing) as the Trifecta.
Burrell Splits (2003)
Top 1st - 24:35
Top 2nd - 28:35
Base 3rd - 44:25 Top 3rd - 52:25
Base 4th - 1:10:10 Top 4th - 1:28:10
Top 5th - 1:37:20 Base 5th - 1:45:xx
Briggs Splits (2001)
Base 1st - 12:15 Top 1st - 25:25
Base 2nd - 35:15 Top 2nd - 47:20
Base 3rd - 54:00 Top 3rd - 1:02:30
Base 5th - 1:21:30 Top 5th - 1:31:05
Base 4th - 1:41:10 Top 4th - 1:57:20
DOUBLE FLATIRON QUINFECTA
Anton Krupicka set the FKT at 4:07:17 on 12/7/2012, ascending each rock.
This mega-enchainment involves doing the Quinfecta in both directions (going south, then north), starting and finishing at Chautauqua.
Krupicka's Splits: Run Report
Base 1st- 12:40..............Top 1st – 27:35 (3:15 downclimb)
Base 2nd – 36:55...........Top 2nd – 48:20
Base 3rd – 55:20............Top 3rd – 1:03:20 (5:10 downclimb)
Sentinel Pass – 1:16:50
Base 5th – 1:21:05.........Top 5th – 1:30:15 (1:55 downclimb)
Base 4th – 1:37:10.........Top 4th – 1:54:40
Base 5th – 2:05:50.........Top 5th – 2:14:50 (2:10 downclimb)
Base 4th – 2:21:50.........Top 4th – 2:40:00
Base 3rd – 2:56:00.........Top 3rd – 3:08:05 (5:05 downclimb)
Base 2nd – 3:20:50........Top 2nd – 3:33:35
Base 1st – 3:39:35.........Top 1st – 3:52:30 (2:45 downclimb)
Ranger Cottage – 4:07:17
ROACH TOP-10 CLASSICS ENCHAINMENT
Darren Smith set the FKT at 6h28m6s on 11/3/2017.
Bill Briggs had the FKT previously at 6:31 on 10/13/2001.
In Gerry Roach's defining tome, Flatiron Classics, he picks ten climbs as the most classic in the Flatirons. This link-up climbs them all in a single push from Chautauqua to the South Mesa Trailhead. The 10 climbs are:
1) First Flatiron, East Face Direct (5.6)
2) Third Flatiron, East Face (5.2)
3) Third Flatiron, Friday's Folly (5.7)
4) Green Mt. Pinnacle, West Chimney (5.5)
5) Skunk Canyon, Stairway To Heaven (5.3) (typically downclimbed)
6) Back Porch, East Face (5.6)
7) Pellaea, East Face (5.5)
8) Fatiron, East Face (5.4)
9) The Maiden, North Face (5.6)
10) The Matron, North Face (5.6)
Briggs' notes from his link-up are here. This is a massive undertaking and Briggs' solo effort is probably highly underappreciated.
Added by admin: No one even tried to beat Briggs' time for the TTIAD until Darren Smith announced his attempt for 11/3/2017. Smith was successful, beating Briggs' time by just 3 minutes, but including running all the way back to Chautauqua, rather than Briggs' finish at Eldorado Springs, adding probably 30-35 min. to the effort. Smith's track and report are on his Strava. His outing was completely unsupported and he didn't use a rope.
Photo: Anton Krupicka
All speed records for the numbered Flatirons are car-to-car. The traditional start/finish is the trash can on the trail a few yards west of the Ranger Cottage in Boulder's Chautauqua Park. As with any FKTs, there are variations in style, i.e. degrees of support. In these running/climbing FKTs, "unsupported" refers to a ropeless ascent and descent of the rock--no rappelling. For virtually any speed record on the Flatirons, it goes without saying that they were "solo" affairs, i.e. no gear was used to protect a fall during the climbing portion of the effort.
FIRST FLATIRON
Matthias Messner has the FKT at 32:18 (Oct. 14, 2015), unsupported.
Sonia Buckley has the women's FKT at 54:46 (2017).
The Direct East Face route (5.6) is the line of ascent on this most proud of Flatiron FKTs.
Rock History:
2015, 32:18 - Matthias Messner
2010, 33:05 - Stefan Griebel
2004, 33:19 - Dave Mackey
2003, 35:04 - Buzz Burrell
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SECOND FLATIRON
This rock is still waiting for a serious effort as a stand-alone FKT (not part of a link-up), but the preferred line of ascent would be Free For All (5.6).
Danny Gilbert has the FKT for a summit route (he climbed Freezeway), 34m09s, 10/25/2017, www.strava.com/activities/1246694706
Sonia Buckley has the women's FKT for a summit route (Free For All), 1:06
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THIRD FLATIRON
Matthias Messner has the FKT at 32:56 (Oct. 19, 2016), supported.
Dave Mackey had the previous FKT at 33:17 (2004), supported.
Stefan Griebel has the FKT at 36:14 (2008), unsupported.
Sonia Buckley reports women's FKTs of 48:31 (supported, 10/2016) and 54:28 (unsupported, 10/2017).
The standard East Face (5.2) starting from the East Bench (not the true base of the rock) is the record route on this rock. The "supported" FKTs are done with a fixed line for rappel from the top, unsupported requires downclimbing.
Rock History:
10/19/2016, 32:56 - Matthias Messner (rap from top) Report
9/11/2012, 33:48 - Anton Krupicka (rap from top) Splits: RA Trail, 6:05; Base, 14:22; Summit, 22:22; Ground, 25:34.
9/11/2012, 34:50 - Dave Mackey (rap from top)
2008, 36:14 - Stefan Griebel (unsupported)
2004, 33:17 - Dave Mackey (rap from top) Report
2003, 34:48 - Buzz Burrell (rap from top)
1989, 36:27 - Bill Briggs (unsupported) Splits: Bluebell Shelter, 5:50; Base, 14:50; Summit, 22:43; Ground, 27:02
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FOURTH FLATIRON
Stefan Griebel has the FKT at 59:15 (7/28/2003).
This rarely-climbed Flatiron consists of three seperate pieces of rock stacked on top of one another making it the longest of the five Flatirons. Standard East Face route (5.4).
2003, 59:15 - Stefan Griebel Splits: RA Trail, 7:27; Sentinel Pass, 18:20; Base 4th, 20:30; Summit 4th, 39:45; Sentinel Pass, 50:40.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FIFTH FLATIRON
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FIRST & THIRD LINK-UP
Stefan Griebel has the FKT at 48:33 (2010).
This car-to-car link-up is almost certainly always done unsupported (no rappels).
Rock History:
2010, 48:33 - Stefan Griebel
2008, 51:26 - Stefan Griebel
2003, 53:09 - Buzz Burrell Splits: Base 1st, 11:20; Top 1st, 22:10; Base 3rd, 30:00; Top 3rd, 37:10.
2003, 58:12 - Bill Briggs
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FLATIRON TRIFECTA
Buzz Burrell has the FKT at 1:09:13 (2003), downclimbing the Second.
This is a car-to-car enchainment of the East Face routes on the First, Second, and Third Flatirons. An issue here becomes whether the routes are climbed or downclimbed, because the configuration of the rocks is such that downclimbing the Second Flatiron will make the enchainment significantly shorter. I personally prefer the aesthetic of ascending each rock from bottom to top, but simply ask that when reporting times, one is clear about what tactic was used.
Link-up History:
2003, 1:09:13 - Buzz Burrell Splits: Summit 1st, 24:40; Base 2nd, 40:00; Summit 3rd, 52:00
2003, 1:18:40 - Burrell & Bill Briggs Splits: Base 1st-13:00; Top 1st-27:00; Top 2nd-32:30; Base 2nd-48:00; Base 3rd-54:00; Top 3rd-1:02.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FLATIRON QUINFECTA
Buzz Burrell set the FKT at 2:01:48 on 10/21/2003, downclimbing the 2nd and 5th Flatirons.
Anton Krupicka set a new FKT at 1h48m58s, Sept. 2016, using Burrell's technique of downclimbing the 2nd and 5th, as posted on his Instagram
Bill Briggs set the FKT at 2:16:08 on 10/25/2001, ascending each rock.
Cordis Hall set a new FKT at 2:04:59 on 8/13/2016, ascending each rock (link to GPS track below).
Anton Krupicka lowered the FKT (ascending each) to 1:51:41 on 9/30/2016.
Mattheus Messner pushed the FKT down to 1:46:22 on 10/26/2016
The car-to-car enchainment of all five Flatirons requires the same tactical distinction (ascending vs. downclimbing) as the Trifecta.
Burrell Splits (2003)
Top 1st - 24:35
Top 2nd - 28:35
Base 3rd - 44:25 Top 3rd - 52:25
Base 4th - 1:10:10 Top 4th - 1:28:10
Top 5th - 1:37:20 Base 5th - 1:45:xx
Briggs Splits (2001)
Base 1st - 12:15 Top 1st - 25:25
Base 2nd - 35:15 Top 2nd - 47:20
Base 3rd - 54:00 Top 3rd - 1:02:30
Base 5th - 1:21:30 Top 5th - 1:31:05
Base 4th - 1:41:10 Top 4th - 1:57:20
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DOUBLE FLATIRON QUINFECTA
Anton Krupicka set the FKT at 4:07:17 on 12/7/2012, ascending each rock.
This mega-enchainment involves doing the Quinfecta in both directions (going south, then north), starting and finishing at Chautauqua.
Krupicka's Splits: Run Report
Base 1st- 12:40..............Top 1st – 27:35 (3:15 downclimb)
Base 2nd – 36:55...........Top 2nd – 48:20
Base 3rd – 55:20............Top 3rd – 1:03:20 (5:10 downclimb)
Sentinel Pass – 1:16:50
Base 5th – 1:21:05.........Top 5th – 1:30:15 (1:55 downclimb)
Base 4th – 1:37:10.........Top 4th – 1:54:40
Base 5th – 2:05:50.........Top 5th – 2:14:50 (2:10 downclimb)
Base 4th – 2:21:50.........Top 4th – 2:40:00
Base 3rd – 2:56:00.........Top 3rd – 3:08:05 (5:05 downclimb)
Base 2nd – 3:20:50........Top 2nd – 3:33:35
Base 1st – 3:39:35.........Top 1st – 3:52:30 (2:45 downclimb)
Ranger Cottage – 4:07:17
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ROACH TOP-10 CLASSICS ENCHAINMENT
Darren Smith set the FKT at 6h28m6s on 11/3/2017.
Bill Briggs had the FKT previously at 6:31 on 10/13/2001.
In Gerry Roach's defining tome, Flatiron Classics, he picks ten climbs as the most classic in the Flatirons. This link-up climbs them all in a single push from Chautauqua to the South Mesa Trailhead. The 10 climbs are:
1) First Flatiron, East Face Direct (5.6)
2) Third Flatiron, East Face (5.2)
3) Third Flatiron, Friday's Folly (5.7)
4) Green Mt. Pinnacle, West Chimney (5.5)
5) Skunk Canyon, Stairway To Heaven (5.3) (typically downclimbed)
6) Back Porch, East Face (5.6)
7) Pellaea, East Face (5.5)
8) Fatiron, East Face (5.4)
9) The Maiden, North Face (5.6)
10) The Matron, North Face (5.6)
Briggs' notes from his link-up are here. This is a massive undertaking and Briggs' solo effort is probably highly underappreciated.
Added by admin: No one even tried to beat Briggs' time for the TTIAD until Darren Smith announced his attempt for 11/3/2017. Smith was successful, beating Briggs' time by just 3 minutes, but including running all the way back to Chautauqua, rather than Briggs' finish at Eldorado Springs, adding probably 30-35 min. to the effort. Smith's track and report are on his Strava. His outing was completely unsupported and he didn't use a rope.
. Oddly, his split on the Freeway seems indicative of a fitness far superior to his approach and deproach splits, especially for a car-to-car effort. With a 5:40 on the face I would guess a car to car time of more like 27min! Nevertheless, its a very quick time! It also seems a bit more logical for the FKT though, I didn't feel like I was quite in enough pain to take the top time. Back to work!
